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Preservation Hall Jazz Band On The Road: Not all tourists and music-lovers get a chance to squeeze into the spartan space at 726 St. Peter St. to catch a glimpse of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, but they can now – the band is on the road with everything they have left. Recovering from 2.5 feet of water in their City Park home themselves, the Penfields caught up with the band in Newtown, CT. The following is Thorny Penfield’s account of the show in its entirety, beautifully expressed, ripe with emotion, tears and love:

Last Thursday night Carolyn and I went to see the Preservation Hall Jazz Band at a little town hall theatre in Newtown, CT. It was a classic venue and big crowd for this Dixieland style traditional jazz performance. Our buddy, Buddha, is working with the band and managing their merchandise on the road. It’s become increasingly apparent how important it is to Carolyn and me to see New Orleans musicians play New Orleans music and work to express all they feel on stage. It makes these performances that much more important to get to and be a part of. It makes their statement through music more expressive, more beautiful and overall a greater appreciation for their talent.

They nailed the classics Tiger Rag, Didn’t He Ramble, Closer Walk with Thee, Saints Go Marching In, Go To the Mardi Gras and even new tunes like Shake That Thing. Nate came out and locked down a dixieland version of You Are My Sunshine. Carl LeBlanc, who has played with everyone including Sun Ra, is playing banjo and sang lead vocals on When I WAS 64 as opposed to When I AM 64 by the Beatles. These guys who range in age from 34 to 70 somethin’ are a band without a home, living on a tour bus. Just yesterday they went to Burlington Coat Factory to buy suits and ties because they have nothing even to wear. Some of the band members even had the tags still on the cuffs of their sleeves last night.

The management of this band have created their own New Orleans Musician’s Relief Fund Foundation which people were raining money on in the merch booth last night. It felt so good to second line and dance and cheer them on. People were yelling “We love you.” From the audience after songs and the band was yelling back at them “We love you too.” All those who have had their lives robbed from them by the flooding in New Orleans, they just seem different. They look tired, they look defeated, their musical stamina has been stolen out from their souls a little bit. They’re playing each song fighting to get their groove back, fighting to reclaim their need to share and express and play.

One of the most touching moments came when John Brunious, the trumpeter and Rickie Monie, the pianist came out for the encore to play a duet of Do You Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans. John stepped up to the mic and began to work his way through the intro and first few verses. You could see the tears welling up in his eyes. He made it through the line that ends “the lazy Mississippi” and then he just broke down and sobbed on stage. He worked to regain his composure and tried to keep singing, he simply couldn’t do it. He’s played for at least forty years to thousands of people and we know how hard it must be for him to feel that sad in front of so many. The crowd rose to its feet and clapped and cheered and egged him on. He called for the “bridge” of the song and worked his way through it on the trumpet to wrap up the song. It was an amazing moment of sadness and really makes one feel so fortunate about our own lives.

We found out from Buddha that John Brunious lost everything in his home including generations of trumpets that belonged to his family. One band member had gone back to dig through the sludge and destruction to find a single mouthpiece that John needed. They brought what they found with them on the road, cleaned it all up and it wasn’t the right mouthpiece after all.

As we left we bumped into John before they climbed on the bus and Carolyn gave John Brunious a big hug that seemed to last for a minute or two.

I encourage everyone to check out the Preservation Hall web site. The recordings that Ben Jaffe has remastered and produced are really incredible and a great bargain. We bought all the different copies they had for sale and hope to pass some of them along to our nephew and Carolyn’s godchild, Mason.

Preservation Hall is an institution of New Orleans that must continue to spread the word about the most important American music in existence.

What more can I say after that? To hear of some of the most venerated musicians reduced to such homelessness and tears is too much to bear, but look at how they go on, spreading the music everywhere in our land. That, in itself, is inspiration. Please visit the site and give what you can – all of the funds go directly to New Orleans musicians.

PHJB on St. Peter
The Band Outside Their Home . Courtesy CFCE, Inc.

Good news – Fats Domino, rescued from the rooftop of his Lower Ninth Ward home, is back home in New Orleans. It’s a pity that we don’t treat our most valuable musicians as we do inanimate national treasures.

Things Looking Up In The Garden District: A neighbor updates me on the progress of the Lower Garden District:

I am happy to report that we now have mail delivery in the neighborhood! The mail we’re getting is old (end of August, early Sept.) but even this is a huge step forward. Also, as I write this there are giant fork lifts and trucks outside cleaning the sidewalks and streets of all piles of tree branches, etc., and trash. I think the refrigerators will be next, and G and his crew are going to help J get yours down our steps and ours off the deck so we can wash our hands of those things forever. There were also lots of crews out today cutting the grass on neutral grounds around the city. Makes a huge difference.

Setbacks and Moves Forward: As the Audubon Nature Institute lays off 690 employees and fixing Orleans Parish floodwalls and levees to full capacity may take into the next hurricane season, the former eastbound lanes of the I-10 twinspan are open to two-way traffic.

The 690 axed full- and part-time employees included 420 from the zoo, 220 from the aquarium, and the remaining 50 from the research center and Nature Center … the remaining nearly 200 employees — both full and part time — now are spread out among the facilities.

[Army Corps of Engineers chief Carl Strock] said that if the investigation shows the canals need completely new structures, then the corps will examine all options, including floodgates at the mouth of the canals. “We must restore this level of protection by hurricane season next year,” he said. “It may not be repairing the floodwalls; it may be doing something in a more permanent fashion across the fronts of these canals to take the surge off before it gets into the canals.”

The former eastbound bridge between New Orleans and Slidell will open to two-way traffic between 3 and 4 p.m. [Friday October 14th, after final checks are made] … The speed limit will be 50 mph. Westbound vehicles must merge onto the bridge near the lakeshore in Slidell, then cut back over to the westbound interstate lanes when they reach eastern New Orleans.

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More New Orleans Websites: Jamie Amdal is back in business at her job as realtor at the Prudential Gardner Garden District office (thanks, Kavita!). I haven’t yet formulated my personal stance on the present and future of realty in New Orleans during what Jamie calls the “current post-Katrina craze.” However, our city does need local people to get back to the work of helping people buy and sell homes who now have tight budgets and very special needs.

Some interesting New Orleans links from Jamie:

Bring New Orleans Back – the “only non-profit fund exclusively dedicated to the restoration of the City of New Orleans.” Commission members include Dan Packer, Mel Lagarde, Boysie Bollinger, Scott Cowen, Wynton Marsalis and a whole cast of interesting characters including venture capitalists, lawyers, a social worker and no scientists.

New Orleans Network – a tool to help people in the New Orleans and Gulf Coast area stay connected to their communities … to help us rebuild our social circles, our neighborhoods, the different communities we participate in, and our cities.

Lakeview Civic Improvement Association – speaks for itself.

Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans – a private non-profit organization that promotes the preservation of New Orleans architecture and neighborhoods … includes guidelines for how to treat historic homes damaged by hurricane floods and winds.

Oh, and happy Yom Kippur.

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NOLA Tests The Waters: A study conducted by LSU’s Louisiana Water Resources Research Institute concludes that the water that flooded Mid-City and Lakeview was mostly harmless. According to John Pardue, the study lead, the samples “contained chemical and biological contaminants in levels very similar to water from a typical rainstorm.”

Pardue warns, however, that the muck and dried-up mud contains hazardous biological material as well as high levels of metals such as copper, zinc, cadmium and lead. Returning residents as well as recovery workers must be careful when cleaning up this material.

The study also ran some tests above and beyond EPA standards (and what are those?). The water contained “small amounts of [home construction] chemicals, including one used in aerosol paints and another used in caulking compounds and sealants [not readily toxic] … like the earlier EPA tests [the study] also didn’t find large amounts of several cancer-causing chemicals associated with gasoline, including benzene, because they evaporate quickly.”

Return To New Orleans 2 | October 2005
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Blanco Disses Nagin’s Casino Plan: Louisiana governor, Kathleen Blanco, distanced herself from New Orleans Mayor Ray Nagin’s plan to transform downtown’s key hotels into gambling centers for the revitalization of the city. Citing the need for individual and business tax credits and “a stronger public education system to stimulate growth and reconstruction in New Orleans,” the governor referred to the gambling solution as a mere quick fix. If you ask me, it’s the other way around: gambling seems to support the economy and educational system of Mississippi rather nicely.

Take this nola.com poll on what you think of Nagin’s gambling idea (not Firefox-compatible). When I voted, 60% thought it a bad idea, with half as many in favor and 10% still uninformed. I wonder how many non-New Orleanians voted. Umm, we need money.

Julie And Her Miocene Vertebrate Site On LPB: My very own Jules is going to be on Louisiana Public Broadcasting as part of a story on one of the Tunica Hills Miocene site she’s working on for her paleontology thesis. The young rockstar says, “They interviewed me out in the field; hopefully I don’t look too sweaty and sandy. Local indie newspaper, Public Broadcasting … I’m gonna be a media star!

“You may be able to see me on TV before I see me on TV since I’ll be in the field Friday/Saturday – the “Watch a Story” link has recent broadcasts, so maybe they’ll have our link up shortly after the broadcast. Hopefully this turns out nicely!”

Now I go back to watching a C-Span talk by American Gas Association Policy Analysis VP, Paul Wilkinson, on the shut-in of natural gas production due to Gulf of Mexico hurricanes and their effects on winter heating bills.

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Return To New Orleans 2 | October 2005

Contrary to circulating rumors, VatulBlog did not perish over the weekend due to a heart attack of tragic proportions. In fact, the blog was so alive that it went on a fact-gathering mission in New Orleans at the end of Week 6. Yes, ladies and gents, this was my first weekend in 1.5 months spent wholly in New Orleans. There is something to be said about the power of home, friends and a place that needs help and hope like never before.

Quite a bit of time was spent riding around the city breathing in the real live air and snapping pictures of various neighborhoods including Uptown, Garden District, Lakeview, MidCity, CBD, French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, and Gentilly. The Lower Ninth Ward and St. Bernard Parish are still off-limits to plebes.

Return To New Orleans 2 | October 2005

Along the riverside portion of the Eastbank crescent (airport to Marigny), the damage is completely random, wind-related and very much in the process of being salvaged and recuperated. It is only when one travels through the lakeside portion of New Orleans that the ruin caused by the flooding is pervasive and recovery will take a while. However, homeowners, insurance assessors, building contractors and debris removal machines and trucks are almost everywhere in the dewatered areas. The sounds of hammers, drills, saws and instructions permeate the air of all of New Orleans.

Return To New Orleans 2 | October 2005

While these pictures do no justice to the scope of the damage and subsequent recovery efforts, be warned that some of them will rip your heart out. For instance, there is nothing my camera could do to capture the ubiquitous sheet of powdery light brown that blankets Lakeview and the homes of close friends, save the treetops that remain green while their lower counterparts in foliage are dead and trunks are covered in mud from weeks spent in stagnant water. No amount of point-and-shoot may portray the amount of activity in the Quarter and businesses back in action along the streets of Metairie, Uptown and the Garden District.

My neighbors are back, most of their homes are cleaned up, and many are back to work or preparing for the beginning of the new year, when residents and city officials alike hope that New Orleanians are able to come back home for the long haul. Uncertainty grows and is scraped off like the mold in New Orleans – while some businesses, including law firms in the CBD’s PanAm and Bank One buildings, spring back to life, other companies still debate their “ifs and whens.”

Speaking of cleaning, I attacked the Refrigerator Of Doom with no more protection than clothes, shoes and rubber gloves. No masks or Vicks Vaporub for this girl (ok, maybe some Pier 1 Asian Spice room spray). While the Toxic Gumbo was the source of some dribble down the sides of the refrigerator, the real carcass was a bag of lettuce that had not only decomposed but liquified into a slimy puddle of stench. That green, leafy vegetables can smell like the products of animal putrefaction is amazing. I should have become a forensic pathologist, but that’s hindsight for another day.

From cleaning my refrigerator and organizing my home to being in Fahy’s and spending just an hour clearing plaster and fiberglass from a home, I felt more alive than I have in weeks. I was home! There are a lot more things I did and saw, quite a bit more that I observed and wish to share. However, one message stands out: The desire to go back, to help the city, itches more than the fiberglass still embedded in my arms. 

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