How One Story Will Fit On Top Of One Another

Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial

Meditation on Dachau doesn’t start and end with Nazis, holocaust and war. Things pop up like America’s problems with race. Then, other things work their way in like how people steal glances at or avoid me in this small town’s grocery store in 2000-freaking-9, Cliff’s amazing writing on being a black man in America, a successful rapper’s upcoming prison sentence, on and on.You’ve got to keep tugging on that thread to see where it got knotted up.

Why do we build monuments and memorials to crap when crap happens all the time? This crap will lead to some other crap, and crap scales rather nicely. It’s a continuum of crap, going all the way back to when Lucy noticed the difference between herself and the Australopithecine next door.

Which is not to say we don’t or ought not to learn from the lessons of history, own our actions and try to be better people. It is to acknowledge fully that no event occurs in contextual isolation and we are foolish to think otherwise. Behavior is much more easily learned than modified, we react more than we act and social progress is not linear and often folds back on itself like time in Quantum Leap.  Don’t tell me you haven’t had one or two of those moments when you’re stuck in 1952 and Ziggy can’t get you out of the bathroom of a Tangipahoa Parish JP’s house.

We may never arrive, but we sure haven’t yet, so stop patting yourself on the back because you’re sixty-four years past Dachau and Oh My God How Could People Have Done That?  They could, we can, we do all the time and that is scarier than any costume or hangover you will see this weekend.

All of this recalls a wonderful face-slapper of an essay by D. Winston Brown called Both Sides Of A Gun Barrel.  He knows this tune.  Please read the whole thing, it won’t take more than ten minutes.  Here are some excerpts:

“But this is not about guns. This is not a celebration of violence, nor is it a refutation of guns or violence. It is not that simple. Black boys, guns, anger. No matter the economic class of the boys, no matter the education, no matter the professional position, we seldom lose that head-nod to another brother or that anger, caged and carried in spines, which skirts just below the skin, racing or prodding alongside blood. But this is not about anger either – at least not in the simple sense. There is no simple answer to how a gun in my car became a primal summons.

“… You never know exactly how one story will fit on top of another, how the brain will create its own truth to satisfy your deepest needs. Things may happen discretely, days apart, months apart, cities and decades and neighborhoods apart, but history collapses, then memory, and nothing ever remains discrete. Isolation is the lie we tell ourselves to comfort ourselves, but connections stretch the prisms we see through to allow more in, and more always changes things. Long before my father carried his gun as a weapon, history had constructed my prism, as it had for so many other young black boys. It was an unspoken history, so I didn’t truly comprehend why I instinctively bristled at the word nigger or why the white guard at the jewelry store followed my father, my brother, and me while we shopped for a Christmas gift for my mother, or what it meant when some white child, some innocent classmate at my 98 percent white private school, said he couldn’t come spend the night because his grandfather told him that he ‘didn’t need to be going to no nigger’s house in a nigger neighborhood.’ He said black, but I heard nigger even then, and I hit him. It’s that anger – history’s long and subtle voice – that, when it is misunderstood, becomes a simmering hostility.

“… These days, when I look at boys dressed in identical brand-name clothes; boys who speak perfect English in public spaces; or boys with their baseball caps tilted to the side, their jeans slung low, their teeth encased in platinum and diamonds, their heads covered in perfect cornrows or their biceps adorned with R.I.P. tattoos, I know all they want in life is to be men – and I know they are doubtful or scared they may not be given the chance. The truth about those dragons that lie in wait for them fuels a naked and aggressive and urgent ambition to compete in America’s marketplace. This need manifests as an electric vitality that permeates American culture, giving it life and allowing its consumers to come close to the void – to play in the darkness – without risk. Meanwhile, the black boys who huddle like alchemists, creating and recreating opportunity where it doesn’t exist, allow our real (and historical) anger to propel us at a furious pace toward dreams we refuse to defer. And though it is not possible, we do want to put down that anger gifted to us by a generation and a country that have yet to fulfill their obligation to show us how to prosper and evolve while dealing with and standing in the darker legacy of our manhood. Until this happens, as many ingredients shall fuel us – a deep and buried anger being one of them – as have contributed to the complex and tragic creation of these United States.”

Salzburg

When some people think of European cities, they envision cobblestone streets lined with bronze sculptures, fluffy pastries and red wine in the cafe at every corner and classical string quartets perched on sidewalks happily belting out concerto after sonata.  The cool night air kisses the dreamer’s face as the last strains echo down that romantically-lit alley and stay with her all the way to a cozy room in a quaint hotel.

That’s exactly how Salzburg is. If we could do this trip all over again, I’d spend one more day in this city and one less in Munich.  Austria is expensive and no one got the plate number of the dollar-euro-exchange-rate truck that hit us, but Salzburg is that good. Even if you skip the rest of this post, take a look at the slideshow:

Rock Me, Amadeus

We spent a night and a day there, strolling, eating and drinking our way through Old Town, the entirety of which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It’s not hard to see why.  Practically every building within it has historic significance and well-preserved baroque beauty, besides having birthed THE BEST COMPOSER EVAR, Wolfgang Amadeus Rockstar Mozart.  (Insert mental image of me in one-person rave outside Mozart’s birthhouse here.)  You guys, it was all I could do not to touch little Mozart’s first harpsichord in his museum.

Salzburg is gorgeous, quiet and mysterious by night.  Standing before a gigantic bronze statue of the chicken-man Papageno, a character from Mozart’s The Magic Flute, on a pedestal in the city center, one regains some faith in this modern world and its ability to cherish and keep.

From Chickens To Eggs. With Salt.

Judengasse, Salzburg salt

There are shops everywhere in Salzburg that sell nothing but little, kitschy-decorated eggs or items shaped from salt. Why? Austria == Österreich == Eastern realm == Easter == eggs. Salzburg == Salt Town == Mesozoic salt deposits == salt mines == cash money on which this city was built == chunks of salt for sale. Austria has a long, complex geologic and human history and Salzburg is the center of a lot of that action. The Alps begin right to the south of the city, shaping the River Salzach, uplifting salt formations which were later mined and creating the rolling karst topography and hills on which the Celts, Romans, Roman Catholics and Bavarian Catholics successively built up churches and strongholds in their quest for dominance over bodies and souls.

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Krewe du Vieux Update

Still missing New Orleans a lot, especially all of my friends and the whole Krewe du Vieux gang.  Since we had the fire at the den this summer (and with a new mayor coming up AND the possibility of a great Saints season AND a theme unrelated to Katrina & The Flood), the KduV 2010 theme is All Fired Up with Dr. John as King and Mother Miriam Chamani of the Voodoo Spiritual Temple as Queen.

Krewe de C.R.A.P.S. has picked an appropriately dorsal and fiery theme honoring Dr. John.  It’s going to be awesome and I can’t wait to walk down the streets of NOLA in costume once again.

Splitting Up With Google Maps

In the last six months, Google Maps has four times placed me in the wrong spot in this little Ohio town.  Also, their maps are not updated on a timely basis even after numerous requests from MAPPING companies, including the one where I work.

The last straw is this:  Run a Google Maps search on Canton, OH.  It puts you in Massillon and Canton is now labeled Colesville. Even after the Canton Rep pointed it out to Google yesterday, the mistake still stands.  It will take a few days given “a number of programs must be reviewed and fixed.”

not-canton

There is no excuse for such shoddy mapping when MapQuest and Yahoo do exceptional work in this area the first time around.  I read that TeleAtlas no longer provides U.S. maps to Google, so it looks like this is solely on Google.

Then again, this is the company that brought you Google Books Fingers.  Please, guys, don’t turn into the new Microsoft.  Not when I just got a Wave account.

All Hallows’ Eve’s A Comin’

a) It’s almost Halloween.

b) The St. James Infirmary cartoon/video is out! It is animated in that cool old Fleischer Studios’ Talkartoons style and features Clint Maedgen, The Turk & Ronnie Numbers of The New Orleans Bingo! Show. I love, love, love it. Clint’s done Cab Calloway proud.

c) DR. JOHN may just be king of the 2010 Krewe du Vieux parade.

Strike up the band!  Or my closest approximation thereof: the official VatulBlog Halloween 2009 mix.  Enjoy and let me know what you think!

Editor B‘s latest mixes inspired me to revive the old 8Tracks account. Check out his Halloween compilation, too.

The Head That Wears The Golden Crown

It’s been four years since Katrina and The Flood.  Yet, when you meet another New Orleanian, the triumvirate of questions pops up within minutes.  Were you flooded?  How much water did you get?  Did you make out ok?

World War II ended four plus sixty years ago.  Still the collective memory of bombings, European cities reduced to rubble, mutual shame and disgust.  That any of it had to happen.  Such hurt can’t help but linger.

This is the Goldene Krone, the only establishment in Darmstadt that escaped Allied bombs.  The locals like to let visitors know such things.

Darmstadt, Germany At Goldene Krone

With a horse’s head sticking out of a third floor window (small Godfather moment on seeing that), the Krone is a fabled jazz club now.  Live jam sessions and foosball almost every evening.  There were four of us – three Americans and a German – and a whole lot of Gemütlichkeit (that’s German for craic and not a drink, although there was that as well).

The kicker, of course, is that American jazz and blues musicians are now more popular in European cities that you’ve never heard of than in their own country. Germans know well the difference between their Boldens and Mortons, Bechets and Brubecks, Hopkinses and Whites, Soul Rebels and Hot 8s. Was I ever surprised when the pretzel boy of Frankfurt recited to me the history of the accents of New Orleans’s Irish Channel, and he’s never even been there. He wasn’t so taken aback on discovering I once lived in the very neighborhood of which he spoke so fondly.

So it goes.

links for 2009-10-20

  • "This textbook is intended to introduce engineering graduate students to the essentials of
    modern Continuum Mechanics. This understanding should include an appreciation for the status of the classical theories as special cases of general nonlinear continuum models. The relationship of the classical theories to nonlinear models is essential in light of the increasing reliance, by engineering designers and researchers, on prepackaged computer codes. These codes are based upon models which have a specific and limited range of validity. Given the danger associated with the use of these computer codes in circumstances where the model is not valid, engineers have a need for an in depth understanding of continuum mechanics and the continuum models which can be formulated by use of continuum mechanics techniques."

The Russians Are Coming

Imagine finding yourself in a town outside Frankfurt at a nippy late-September 8AM, and all you want to do is crawl into the nearest bed because it’s 2AM back home. What fresh hell?  Your concerned friend, on the other hand, wants to keep you awake as long as possible so you can have a post-lunch nap. So, he drives your husband and you around this town, his town of Darmstadt, happily chattering on about its history which include an artists’ colony and a wedding tower.

And then he makes you walk up a hill to this:

Mathildenhöhe

Ok, nice hallucination, I’m leaving to go sleep in the car now. Come find me after you climb back out the rabbit hole. See, all I was expecting from Darmstadt was an industrial suburb with one very pre-glasnost-esque building called the Fraunhofer Institute.  We’d hang out there for the duration of my conference and then leave for the rest of Germany and Austria.  As I said in my last post, Darmstadt pleasantly surprised the wind out of me.

The building at left is the Hochzeitsturm or the Wedding Tower, a gift of the people of Darmstadt to their beloved Grand Duke of Hesse and patron of the arts, Ernst Ludwig Karl Albert Wilhelm, on the occasion of his wedding to Princess Eleonore of Solms-Hohensolms-Lich in 1905. Known commonly as the Five-Fingered Building, it’s prettier on the inside than out with its gorgeous frescoes and rooms.

Inside The Hochzeitsturm / Wedding Tower in Mathildenhöhe Inside The Hochzeitsturm / Wedding Tower in Mathildenhöhe

Check the crest of the city of Darmstadt, replete with Gothic lion and fleur de lis, as it should be!

Inside The Hochzeitsturm / Wedding Tower in Mathildenhöhe

Then, there’s this bewildering non sequitur of a Russian chapel which sits right next door.

Around Mathildenhöhe Around Mathildenhöhe

The chapel is actually older than the Wedding Tower. Turns out local Princess Alix of Hesse-Darmstadt marrried a certain Russian Tsar Nicholas II in 1894. As a married couple, Nicholas and Alix traveled back to Darmstadt a number of times, when Nicholas refused to pray at any of the local churches. The story goes that, in order to attend proper church services while on vacation, he had this orthodox chapel constructed between 1897 and 1899 and had it underlain with soil brought in via train from Russia. Crazy? Yes. If you have that kind of money, however, and the art-loving locals bless your venture, who are future generations to question it?

Fat lot of good all that gilded pomp and prayer did. You may know Princess Alix better as Alexandra Feodorovna Romanova, granddaughter of Queen Victoria, close friend of mystic Grigori Rasputin and mother of the infamous Anastasia. She was also the last Empress of Russia, executed along with Nicholas in 1918 by Bolshevik firing squad.

That, ladies and gents, is way too much mind-blowing history and context to take in on one chilly, jetlagged morning. C’est la vie in Europe.

Mathildenhöhe

Pictures Of Darmstadt, Germany

After some technical difficulties (wherein neither my motivation nor my laptop cooperated for a while), I’ve begun to upload the 350 pictures from our trip to Germany and Austria.

Here is the first set from Darmstadt, Germany. You’re probably wondering “Where?” The quaint, little town of Darmstadt sits around 30km south of Frankfurt, but there’s nothing intellectually and architecturally quaint or little about it. Home to three technical universities, it houses the Fraunhofer Institute for Computer Graphics, where a number of seminal works of computer visualization were researched and written, and where element Darmstadtium (atomic number 110) was created in 1994. Darmstadt is also home to more jazz clubs and musicians than Frankfurt, the Jazz-Institut Darmstadt (Europe’s largest public jazz archive) and Mathildenhöhe, an artists’ colony founded by Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig in 1899.

Stories of the crazy architecture of this area, especially the Hochzeitsturm (Wedding Tower) and adjacent Russian chapel, in my next.